Quick Hits and Favorite Ticks

There are those who rock climb that only want to know the physical ratings and not the mental. Rock climbing is more than either, it is the balance of both, with a dash of spirit mixed in.

For every "hard" route I've soloed, I can think of at least three "easy" ones I would never. This may be from the type of climb, the weather in the air, or something else that stops the feet from leaving the ground.

That being said, there are still so many myths, innuendo, and rumors going around about what I've done and what I haven't. For those who want to know, here are the facts, as well as a couple personal favorites.


  • Vertical Feet in a Day:
    280+routes
    equaling Two Miles up to 5.13a - Joshua Tree
    12,000 via three Grade IV and one Grade V - Temple Crag, Sierras
    16,000 via 160+ pitches (plus descents) - Tahquitz
  • Mountain Ridge Routes Soloed
    "Palisade Traverse" (VI 5.9) in 22 hours  - Sierras
    "Palisade Traverse" (VI 5.9) car-to-car in 23 hours  - Sierras
    "Temple/Galey/Sill Traverse" 19 hours car to car - Sierras
  • Some Onsight Solos
    "Romantic Warrior" (V 5.12b) - Needles, California
    *Sea of Tranquility (V 5.11d, A0) with rappel pre-inspection - Needles, California
    "Neon Dust" (bottom crux then joining "Valkyre" as per guidebook)
     - Froggatt, England
    "Outrage" (5.13a)
    - Boney Bluffs
    "Angel's Crest" (14-pitch 5.10b) - Squamish, Canada

  • Some First Ascent Solos
    "Shikata Ga Nai" (IV/V 5.12) - Needles
    "MRSR" (5.12)
     
    - Joshua Tree
    "Rainy Reality" (5.12) - Burren, Ireland
    "Dancing on Mirrors" (III 5.11) - Sierras
    "Devil's Arete" (5.11) - Little Egypt
    "Wonder Woman" (5.11) with the Outlaws - Malibu
    "Of Death and Panties" (IV 5.10) - Mt. Galey

  • Additional Fun Solos and Adventures
    "Ghetto Blaster" (5.13b)
    - Malibu Creek
    "The Pirate" (5.12d) - Suicide Rocks
    "Fear and Loathing" (5.12a)
    - Las Vegas
    "
    The Vampire" (III, 5.11a) - Tahquitz
    "
    Equinox" (5.12c) & "EBGBs" (5.10+) - Joshua Tree (same day)
    "An Puca" (E5 6b) - Ailladie, Ireland
    "
    Airy Interlude" (III, 5.10b) naked - Needles
    1,000 solos in 30 days (400+ 5.9-5.13) - Joshua Tree
    240 onsight solos to 5.12+
    - Ireland 2006
    214 onsight solos to 5.13 ( "routes" as listed in guidebook) - England 2006